vip in the city, page 17

More noodles

After a holiday hiatus, we were back in Chinatown for lunch again on Thursday. I didn’t have a specific destination already in mind, so at my friend’s request, we ended up back at Marco Polo Noodle Shop on Baxter. It’s good, but I’m not sure why he’s so obsessed with this place. It has to be the noodles.

We must be regulars now, because our waiter chose this afternoon to initiate more personal interactions. His very first question to me, head gesturing toward my dining companion: “He’s Korean, right?” Haha. (Yes.)

Chinatown lanterns

After lunch, we passed these colorful lucky lanterns, set up for the upcoming Chinese New Year on February 7, 2008. The annual celebrations last 15 days, ending with the Lantern Festival on the first full moon of the new lunar year. The lantern-lighting tradition dates to the Han Dynasty, and though its origins are unclear, the most popular legend surrounding the festivities concerns a town’s deliverance from fiery destruction at the vengeful hands of the Jade Emperor of Heaven.

Extra Virgin territory

One of the venues CL, CSF and I had considered for dinner tonight was the brand new Bar Boulud, but we decided in the end in favor of the more established Extra Virgin. None of us had been yet to this “little gem of a restaurant,” so to borrow a phrase from NBC’s 1990s summer reruns campaign, it was new to us. Bar Boulud’s menu looks interesting, though — charcuterie and cheese, terrines and pâtés — so I hope to make it over there one evening soon.

Executive chef and co-owner Joey Fortunato (formerly of Layla, Scarabee, and the Tonic), together with partner Michele Gaton (former general manager of The Coffee Shop), opened Extra Virgin in the old Titou space in 2004. Their Mediterranean bistro proved so popular with West Village locals and destination diners alike that it expanded into the store next door in 2005, adding an extra 30 seats to the dining room.

Three years later, the restaurant still draws crowds every night, and knowing its reservations policy — none for parties smaller than 6 — we planned an early arrival, and managed to score one of the tightly packed wooden tables with hardly a wait. It was a case of good timing: by the time our food arrived, the dinner rush had set in, with patrons packing the long bar area and spilling onto West 4th Street. Extra Virgin offers the option of a few sidewalk tables: highly coveted in warmer months, but seemingly utilized even on chilly evenings like this one, by the intrepid (or impatient) few.

Extra Virgin

Under a faux burl wood panel — which CSF remarked, reminded him of his parents’ basement — we dipped our crusty bread slices into a plate of excellent olive oil: extra virgin, no doubt. The warmly appointed room was a charming mix of soothing blues, exposed brick walls, pressed tin ceilings, and oversize, gold-framed mirrors. Flickering candlelight makes for pretty dining companions, but not for good food photography.

No snapshots, then, of our Fritto Misto — a generous platter of hot and crispy calamari, rock shrimp, clams and zucchini, served with a spiced tomato dipping sauce. Very good, even if I accidentally bit into what I thought was a battered round of squash, but which turned out to be a deep-fried lemon slice. (The dining room really was quite dark.)

From the daily-changing “Classics” section of the menu, I chose the Oven Roasted Leg of Lamb with twice baked potatoes and green beans. The meat was hearty yet tender, and arrived medium rare without my specifying so. I’d be interested in sampling some of the other day’s specials, which include a coq au vin on Tuesdays, and Thursday’s whole roasted branzino, a fish which Fresh Direct describes as “a little like a perch, with a similar white, firm flake and a mild sweetness that will remind you of fresh scallops.” (Ooh, scallops.)

Extra Virgin

Really, though, this evening was more about catching up with old friends than about lingering over food. (The anxiously hovering servers made the latter nearly impossible, anyway.) We paid our tab, and set off into the night.

Pirates! (No ninjas)

The New York Gilbert & Sullivan Players was formed in 1974 by a group of friends, mostly alumni of the Barnard College Gilbert & Sullivan Society. The troupe’s first performances were held at block parties, street fairs, nursing homes, and in city parks, with costumes, sets and a sound system borrowed from the school. From those humble beginnings, the troupe has grown over the last three decades to become “America’s preeminent professional Gilbert & Sullivan repertory ensemble” with over 2,000 performances of G&S masterpieces throughout the eastern United States and Canada under their belts.

NYGASP’s 2008 New York season includes six productions over four weeks at City Center – two weeks each in January and June. This month features performances of Princess Ida, The Pirates of Penzance, The Mikado and Trial by Jury; June’s repertory will include H.M.S. Pinafore, The Gondoliers, The Mikado, and The Pirates of Penzance.

City Center

The Pirates of Penzance, or The Slave of Duty, which J and I were here to see tonight, is one of Gilbert and Sullivan’s enduring “Big Three” comic operas, along with H.M.S. Pinafore, and The Mikado. Even those who have only a passing familiarity with the Victorian-era composing duo’s works are able to identify The Mikado as the faux-Japanese/yellowface operetta (the production of which was the subject of Mike Leigh’s 1999 Academy Award-winning biopic Topsy-Turvy); the other two operettas are perhaps slightly less distinguishable from one another, as I discovered when a couple of different people I spoke with that day conflated the sea-faring works in their recollections.

Buttercup? (No, that’s Pinafore.) “What, never?”/“No, never!”/”What, never?”/“Well, hardly ever!” (Pinafore again.) Pirates is the story of Frederic, a dutiful young man mistakenly apprenticed to a band of tender-hearted, orphaned pirates, who yearns to return to “respectable society” and marry his love Mabel, the daughter of a Major General. The comic opera features a bevy of beautiful, unwed maidens, a team of timid constables, plots and hijinks galore. Cutting edge theatre it’s not, and NYGASP’s production, despite its physical proximity to Broadway is not quite a Broadway-caliber show. What it is, though, is a flagrantly and joyously fey production of painted backdrops, goofy costumes and hokey choreography, which at one point, includes a broadly hammy kickline of pirates shaking sparkly silver hats. I laughed aloud several times: the performers’ unabashed love of Gilbert and Sullivan was downright infectious. Even J, just a day back from his tour of Italy, managed to battle off jetlag through to the end.

Pirates of Penzance

Of course, we all sat up in anticipation during the rapid-fire patter-filled Act I showstopper, “I Am the Very Model of a Modern Major General.” It takes some wit (and quite a bit of gall) to rhyme “lot o’ news” with “hypotenuse.” Check out this clip from the 1983 film version (Kevin Kline as The Pirate King! Linda Ronstadt as Mabel! Angela Lansbury as Frederic’s maid, Ruth!) then watch the same video dubbed over with “Baby Got Back,” G&S-style, by Sirs Gilbert, Sullivan and Mix-a-Lot. (According to the folks at VH1’s Best Week Ever, it’s among the “Top Ten Worst Karaoke Trap Songs.”) Isn’t YouTube great?

Pirates of Penzance

Atonement on film

On my way to see Atonement tonight, I was advised by a friend who screened it a few weeks ago to “bring tissues.” Having read the Ian McEwan novel on which the film was based, I thought that good advice. I headed over to the theater — no coat required! — and settled in for a good weep.

Columbus Avenue trees

I was prepared to love this film. Last month, Atonement garnered seven Golden Globe nominations; in addition to the nomination for best dramatic picture (among an unusually crowded field of seven), the Hollywood Foreign Press Association bestowed nods to actors James McAvoy, Keira Knightley, and Saoirse (“SEER-sha,” in case you were as flummoxed as I) Ronan, and to Joe Wright for director — none of whom, unfortunately, will get to walk the Globes’ red carpet this year, due to the writers strike.

The film is beautifully made, no question: a sprawling, epic romance set at the dawn of World War II, a tragedy sparked by a false accusation sprung from a young girl’s overactive imagination. I was pleased to see the film keep the book’s structure with its emphasis on words (written, typed, spoken), while also managing to preserve some of McEwan’s lyricism. There are so many wonderfully framed moments; Wright’s technique of replaying scenes from different characters’ perspectives works well, as does his intense focus on seemingly small visual and aural details: the incessant buzzing of a bee in the sweltering heat, the hard-driving hammers of a typewriter (echoed in Dario Marianelli’s urgent score, with solo work by French pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet), languidly swirling smoke

The star-cross’d lovers (dreamily played by Knightley and McAvoy) actually share rather little dialogue; Wright conveys much in their smoldering looks, and close-ups of hands: brushing secretly against each other under the dinner table, one laid gently over another during a too brief and public reunion in a busy tea room. Audible sighs and murmurs rippled through the audience during Robbie and Cecilia’s impassioned (and highly choreographed) encounter in a darkened library — probably one of the more affecting love scenes in recent memory, despite being shot almost entirely in shadow, and showing little actual skin, save for a bare, slender back.

That back, of course, belongs to Knightley and it’s sheathed in widely envied bias-cut emerald green silk dress. The stunning garment — by Atonement‘s costume designer Jacqueline Durran — recently was voted the best film costume of all time (?!) in a survey by Sky Movies and British InStyle magazine, beating the likes of Marilyn Monroe’s white dress from The Seven Year Itch and Audrey Hepburn’s black Givenchy from Breakfast At Tiffany’s, which were second and third respectively.

Technique-wise, Atonement‘s highlight is the masterful and much celebrated five-and-a-half minute tracking shot, following soldier Robbie through Dunkirk, where the British Expeditionary Force are staging their withdrawal. The camera lingers over the chaos, destruction and disorganization, swooping past looted and abandoned buildings, limbless soldiers, murdered horses, a men’s choir, and surreal images of a pommel horse and a twirling ferris wheel. This type of technical feat is always impressive; I was reminded of the last such sequence I saw, in Alfonso Cuaron’s Children of Men. According to director Wright, the one-day beach scene shoot employed an elaborate set with 1,000 extras, plus horses and vehicles, and itself made up a good portion of the film’s estimated $30 million production budget.

For all the grand scale, though, I was left feeling a bit like New York Times film critic A.O. Scott, who noted somewhat dismissively that the primary impression left by the mass evacuation scene was “Wow, that’s quite a tracking shot,” rather than “My God, what a horrible experience that must have been.

For me, that remove carried over to the film as a whole: I found myself often impressed by what was up on screen, and at several points, quite moved, but never fully drawn in to the story. The difference between liking a movie and loving it, I suppose.

One man's trash

Also at the Columbus Avenue flea market, I came across these “historical diggers,” who scavenge painstakingly through construction sites to unearth detritus of a forgotten New York. On display today, their collection of glass bottles, several of which date to the early 19th century:

I.S. 44 Flea Market

Antique Glass

Home box office

I had a full first weekend of 2008 planned — CS’s birthday dinner, FH’s “Wii, Wine and Wiener” party — but all was waylaid by a very inconveniently timed stomach virus that hit fast and hard at the end of the work week. Is there any other kind, really? At first I had chalked up the growing aches and weariness to too much coffee and late nights at the office, but by Friday afternoon, I knew I was not going to make it through the day at work. I took my leave, and descended into the subway, hoping very hard that I would not become just another sick passenger.

Somehow I made it back to my apartment without transit delay-causing incident, and there I remained for the next 48 hours.

The one good bit of timing was that my home confinement fell just days into the free month of HBO I argued out of Time Warner after my service went out for two days last week. I ended up re-watching, at least in part, a few films I’d seen (and liked) in the past, including Little Miss Sunshine and Children of Men. One I hadn’t seen before: A Good Year, the rather bad and embarrassingly clichéd movie about a ruthless bond trader (played by flash-tempered Russell Crowe) rediscovering la joie de vivre in a Provençal vineyard. Marion Cotillard as his local love interest is all but unrecognizable from her star turn in La Vie En Rose. But on mute (and on meds), the film plays like a beautifully shot travelogue. Ah, I will get back to southern France one of these days.

I was excited to come across Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, which was one of the most trippy, moving films I’ve seen in theaters in recent years. The vision of Joe (Jim Carrey, whom I generally dislike) standing in the living room of an abandoned Montauk beach house, reliving his first (and soon to be vanquished) memory of his lover, Clementine (Kate Winslet), as the walls crumble around him into the Atlantic Ocean — just devastating.

In a funny bit of synergy, I noticed that Saturday’s word of the day on Dictionary.com was “lacuna” — the name of the fictitious company whose memory-erasing services are the focus of the film’s action.

lacuna \luh-KYOO-nuh\, noun;
plural lacunae \luh-KYOO-nee\ or lacunas::
1. A blank space; a missing part; a gap.
2. (Biology) A small opening, depression, or cavity in an anatomical structure.

By the time I finally emerged from my apartment on Three Kings’ Day, it was as if I had stepped into another season. Gone was the icy chill of just a few days ago; in its place: sunshine and temperatures in the 50s. And in January!

The shoppers at the I.S. 44 flea market on Columbus and 77th Street seemed to take it all in stride.

I.S. 44 Flea Market

I.S. 44 Flea Market

I.S. 44 Flea Market

(Post-)Holiday Stars

I noticed in my leap past December that I didn’t post any photos of the holiday decorations at Time Warner Center this year. These may be my favorite, and “Under the Stars” will be on display for just another day, through January 4. With temperatures in the city dropping into the bitter teens this evening and a RealFeel Temperature™ in the low single digits(!), these colored lights have the added benefit of being viewable indoors.

TWC Holiday Stars

TWC Holiday Stars

TWC Holiday Stars

The 9th day of Christmas

A last look at the Christmas tree in front of the New York Stock Exchange. This tree lighting tradition, which dates from 1923, is believed to be Manhattan’s oldest. As in years past, 2007’s 65′ Norway Spruce from the Catskills was decorated with 10,000 multi-colored lights and 250 multi-colored balls. The six 50′ columns of The Exchange’s façade were strung with lights to create an illuminated American flag measuring 40′ high by 72′ wide.

NYSE tree

After the weekend, like so many trees around the city, The Exchange’s tree will be converted into mulch. At MulchFest this Saturday and Sunday, participants can bring their Christmas trees to local parks throughout the five boroughs to chipped and bagged for mulch.

For those that miss out on Mulchfest, the Department of Sanitation will collect trees left at the curb for composting through Wednesday, January 16, 2008. Is there anything more melancholy than the sight of all those brown-edged trees, stripped of their tinsel and lights, lining the sidewalks?

More backfilling of December posts to come. Looking at that birthday cake from Ceci-Cela reminds me that this is the week the SoHo bakery prepares its galette des Rois (Kings’ cake), a Feast of Epiphany treat made with flaky puff pastry, that can be plain or filled with frangipane, an almond-flavored paste. Hidden inside the cake is a “fève” – once a bean, but now a small porcelain or china figurine; the recipient of the slice containing la fève is crowned King (or Queen) for the day. C’est magnifique!

A matter of perspective

Chinatown Ice Cream Factory

Around the corner at The Original Chinatown Ice Cream Factory, the shop had sold out of their popular Almond Cookie, Don Tat (egg custard tart) and Black Sesame ice cream flavors after a busy holiday week. Boo!

Chinatown Ice Cream Factory

As we perused the dry erase board for an alternative, we could have chosen from among Lychee, Durian, Pandan and Zen Butter (peanut butter ice cream with toasted sesame seeds) listed under “Regular” flavors. Under “Exotic”: Chocolate and Vanilla.

Reminds me of HSBC’s “Your Point of View” ad campaign.

Chinatown Ice Cream Factory

And on the topic of wordplay, I read today that Dave Eggers‘s nonprofit youth writing workshop and tutoring center, Park Slope-based 826NYC, is hosting a fundraising tournament on Saturday, January 19, 2008: Scrabble for Cheaters. When I forwarded the list of “cheats” for charity to my partner-in-crime (you know who you are, ahem!), he was “outragedqxz” by my revisiting of 15-year old indiscretions. Current price tag on our past peccadillos: $400.

New Year's dinner at ABC

FMBJ and HS had flown into New York for just 36 hoursWhite Plains, to be exact — so how could we not seize upon the opportunity to meet them on New Year’s Day?

We piled into the car to fetch them from Westchester, and then back down to Manhattan for dinner. On the drive in, HS peppered us with questions about NYC pizza, bagels and Jewish delis; I wondered if she was ever-so-slightly disappointed when we ended up in Chinatown on her one night in the city.

The restaurant at 34 Pell Street was known as Danny Ng Restaurant until late 2006 when the chef and several members of the serving staff moved on to open Amazing 66 at 66 Mott, where they’ve since generated lots of good word of mouth. 34 Pell’s post-renovation incarnation was redubbed ABC Chinese Restaurant, which seemed somehow apropos for tonight’s gathering.

Welcome Lobster

It’s been ages since we ordered an entire peking duck. These days, I get my fix from the occasional buffet visit or from Corner 28 on Flushing’s Main Street, where individual roast duck — not true Peking duck — sandwiches are sold out of a sidewalk window for 75 cents apiece, which inevitably lacks the pageantry of tableside carving and assembly.

ABC Peking Duck

ABC Peking Duck

This dish wasn’t even on the menu; we asked the waiter for a recommendation. He described it as “Chinese Prime Rib.”

ABC Prime Rib

Lobster with Ginger and Scallions — second time in one week:

ABC Lobster

Chinese Garlic Fried Chicken:

ABC Chicken

Not pictured: a not very politically correct (and somewhat oversteamed) Chilean sea bass, a delicately flavored silken tofu and shrimp dish, sauteed pea shoots, and a house special fried rice. Eight dishes in total: an auspicious number for an auspicious new year.